Rome Traveller
Rome's rooftops and domes from the Janiculum, trees in the foreground
QUESTIONS ANSWERED AT LENGTH

The Journal

Visitor questions about Rome, answered at length: getting in from Fiumicino, riding the Metro, why Vatican City is a separate country, why the districts are called rioni, a day at Ostia Antica and the hole in the Pantheon's roof.

Photo: Rudolfo Kithera, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

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Each one a single question, answered in full

The articles

  1. IHow do you get from Fiumicino Airport to central Rome?
    Getting Here

    How do you get from Fiumicino Airport to central Rome?

    Most visitors take the Leonardo Express, the non-stop train from the airport's own station to Roma Termini. How to find the train, when the regional FL1 line makes more sense, how to recognize an official taxi and its fixed fare to the center, and what to ignore on the way out.

  2. IIHow do you visit Ostia Antica from Rome?
    Day Trips

    How do you visit Ostia Antica from Rome?

    Ostia Antica, the port city of ancient Rome, is the easiest day trip from the center: a suburban train from Porta San Paolo, beside the Piramide Metro stop, takes you to a Roman town preserved under sand. How to get there, what the town was, what to look for among its streets, apartment blocks and baths, and how to plan the day.

  3. IIIHow does the Rome Metro work for visitors?
    Getting Around

    How does the Rome Metro work for visitors?

    Rome has only three Metro lines, and none of them runs through the heart of the old center. Which line reaches which sights, where they cross, why building them takes so long, how the Metrebus fare system ties them to the buses and trams, and when walking is simply faster.

  4. IVWhy are the districts of Rome called rioni?
    The Rioni

    Why are the districts of Rome called rioni?

    Old Rome is divided into twenty-two rioni, numbered from Monti to Prati, and their names are carved at street corners. Where the word comes from, how fourteen ancient regions became twenty-two modern districts, what the 1744 plaques are, and how to use the numbers to find your way.

  5. VWhy does the Pantheon have a hole in its roof?
    The Pantheon

    Why does the Pantheon have a hole in its roof?

    The Pantheon's dome has been open to the sky for nearly nineteen centuries. What the oculus does for the weight of the dome, how the builders made the concrete lighter as it rose, where the rain goes, how the light moves around the hall, and the rose petals that fall through it at Pentecost.

  6. VIWhy is Vatican City a separate country?
    Vatican City

    Why is Vatican City a separate country?

    St. Peter's and the Vatican Museums stand in the smallest country in the world, not in Italy. How a thousand years of papal rule ended in 1870, why the popes called themselves prisoners, what the Lateran Treaty of 1929 created, and what the border means for a visitor today.

Written one at a time

Next on the list

  • The ColosseumHow were wild animals raised into the arena of the Colosseum?
  • The ColosseumWhy is so much of the Colosseum missing?
  • The Roman ForumWhat happened on the Via Sacra in a Roman triumph?
  • The Roman ForumWho were the Vestal Virgins and where did they live?
  • The Palatine Hill and the Circus MaximusWhere does the word palace come from?
  • The Capitoline Hill and its MuseumsWhy is the she-wolf the symbol of Rome?
  • The Capitoline Hill and its MuseumsHow did the statue of Marcus Aurelius survive the Middle Ages?
  • The PantheonWho is buried in the Pantheon?
  • Piazza Navona and Campo de' FioriIs the Fountain of the Four Rivers really an insult to Borromini?
  • The Trevi FountainWhy do people throw coins into the Trevi Fountain?